Cambria Pines by the Sea is full of gardeners and people come from all around to participate in the Cambria Garden Tour. Cambria has had a garden tour for the past 18 years, but last year the sponsoring group took a break. We were tour deprived last spring! Now [...]]]>

A charming Cambria residence for birds.

Cambria Pines by the Sea is full of gardeners and people come from all around to participate in the Cambria Garden Tour. Cambria has had a garden tour for the past 18 years, but last year the sponsoring group took a break. We were tour deprived last spring! Now it is back in full force with seven gardens to visit, a continental breakfast, gourmet treats at each site, and a wine tasting and raffle finale at the Cambria Nursery to end the day.

This year I worked on the committee to select the gardens. What fun! The four members of the committee visited many of the beautiful gardens in Cambria and chose ones that we thought would inspire gardeners. I don’t want to give all the secrets away but here’s a peek what you’ll see on the tour.

Hold on to your garden hat! This garden is “BIG and BEAUTIFUL”! The Cambria Pines Road estate grounds have been recently renovated with a lush green lawn (rare in Cambria), charming greenhouse, water features, bridges, and creek bed. The rock-walled vegetable garden makes “growing your own” a beautiful experience.

Seaside landscape frames ocean view.

In another location, a simple garden landscape is perched on the bluffs overlooking the Pacific. The landscape provides a foreground for a vast water view. Low-growing, drought tolerant plants like ceanothus and rockrose provide color, and a carpet of dymondia surrounds the rock pavers.  There’s a modified Zen garden, an enclosed area for potting and growing grapes, vegetables, and herbs, and a pizza oven in a sheltered area by the front door. A few local classic cars will be on view on the street out front for your enjoyment.

Around the corner, within walking distance of the sea, you’ll visit an enchanting small garden with sweeping hillside views of the Fiscalini Ranch. The greenhouse provides a retreat where the owner nurtures and collects exotic flowers. Clay sculptures and pottery adorn the property.

Above the fog, beyond the wind, you’ll meander through a garden that’s evolved over a generation. There’s a playhouse for grandchildren, a pond, roses, and pathways of brick and stone. Water features abound. Art objects and staghorn ferns decorate corners and fences, and benches and a hammock provide “places to ponder”.

A perfect little greenhouse.

On Lodge Hill you’ll visit a hillside retreat where native and Mediterranean plants  thrive in poor soil. A huge native Toyon shade the rhododendrons. You’ll find a dry creekbed, bridge, and sitting area with an overhead structure. Fruit trees and small vegetable beds provide produce for the kitchen. The plants will be labeled to help visitors identify the hardy native plants.

A Japanese inspired front gate, complete with Japanese maples, welcome you at yet another lovely Cambria garden. The guesthouse is “one of a kind”, and the vintage trailer that serves as an art studio is a treasure. Using a bridge, cross the dry creek bed and see lesser-known Australian plants that tolerate summer drought.
A kind of “secret garden” that cannot be seen from the street awaits you at this shady Cambria home. You’ll have to climb the stairs and make your way to the back of the home to find a spacious outdoor living area complete with seating areas, fireplace and stained glass windows. The garden of Mediterranean and semitropical plants covers six lots. A large custom carved Buddha presides over the outdoor space.

Big and Beautiful!

For more information on the Cambria Garden Tour on May 19, visit www.CambriaGardenTour.com or call the ticket hotline at 805 909-0052. All proceeds benefit the Cambria Education Foundation and the New Dawn Montessori.

The complete article on the Cambria Garden Tour  (written by Lee Oliphant) will be published in  The Cambrian, on May 17^th.

There’s a new Sunset Western Garden Book out and I had to buy it. Sunset Western Garden Books and I go way back. When I was young I used to leaf through my mother’s old “First Edition” 1954 publication. I knew nothing about gardening, but in the sandy [...]]]>

Old Sunset Garden Books-We Go Way Back

There’s a new Sunset Western Garden Book out and I had to buy it. Sunset Western Garden Books and I go way back. When I was young I used to leaf through my mother’s old “First Edition” 1954 publication. I knew nothing about gardening, but in the sandy soils of Orange County, you could put a sunflower seed in the ground and grow a 10-foot behemoth.

Of the newer Sunset Western Garden Books in my library, the 2001 seventh edition was my bible during Master Gardener training. I didn’t think the 2007 edition had enough new material, so I passed on that one. But what gardener can resist the newly released ninth edition?

Here’s my rationale for buying it. This edition is the first to feature plant photos exclusively. Not that I didn’t enjoy the illustrations of the older versions, but a color photo is irresistible. Color is all-important in gardening. The plant encyclopedia of the new 2012 edition has been updated and includes 1,000 more entries. There is a “Gardening, Start to Finish” section for beginning gardeners. Information is based on steps in the creation of a garden rather than in alphabetical order; planning comes first, then planting, growing, and dealing with problems. I like that. There’s a guide for growing vegetables called “What Edibles to Plant When”.

I like the green “tip” boxes included in the plant encyclopedia. They cover subjects entitled “Paw Power”, information on using kangaroo paws in the landscape. They’re entertaining and informational. There is a digital component to the New Sunset Western Garden Book. You get the free mobile edition of the “Plant Finder” for your smartphone. There’s a companion online Plant Finder that lists plants as you browse by color, height, spread and special needs. There is no ebook edition. You can go to the Sunset web site for a video on a topic when you see the little camera icon at the bottom of a page. I’ll admit, sometimes a video is worth a thousand words.

Assortment of Sunset Garden Books to Look At

The Sunset Western Garden Book has improved over the years, but it’s not perfect. For example, why don’t they include the pronunciation of the plant under the titles of the entries in the Plant Encyclopedia rather than in a separate section in the back of the book? Then there are the thin pages that are already rippling in our damp climate.

Like many of my gardening books, The New Sunset Western Garden Book is practical, inspirational and informational. My list of gardening “things to do” grows longer with each page. On days I can’t get the energy up to “dig and plant”, I’ll just sit with my new book and dream. I really don’t need another garden book but this one is hard to resist.

A colony of pocket gophers has set up residence in our yard, and Maddie, the labradoodle decided to expose them. She dug a hole, five feet in length and two feet wide in the soft soil between the roses. The pretty California poppies went flying but she [...]]]>

A naughty labradoodle uncovers a gopher den

A colony of pocket gophers has set up residence in our yard, and Maddie, the labradoodle decided to expose them. She dug a hole, five feet in length and two feet wide in the soft soil between the roses. The pretty California poppies went flying but she did her job; she let us know that gophers had invaded our garden and we must get off our duffs and get to work to rid ourselves of these pests.

As soon as the soil dampens with winter rain, gophers become active. You will know they arrive when you find piles of earth in your beloved beds. These burrowing rodents are called “pocket gophers” because of their large external cheek pouches used for carrying food and nesting materials. They have powerful forequarters, large claws on their front paws, short fur, small eyes, and sensitive facial whiskers for maneuvering in close, dark quarters. Their lips, which close behind four large incisor teeth, keep dirt out of their mouths when using teeth for digging. Practical I’m sure, but hard to visualize!

We’ve had both moles and gophers this year. If you aren’t sure of the difference, see the post I wrote a couple of years ago. The smaller moles burrow close to the surface of the earth. They do not eat plants but dine on grubs and earthworms just below the surface. While they can disrupt newly planted annuals, they are far less harmful to your plants than the notorious pocket gopher. A little tolerance of this smaller cousin is encouraged.

The story goes that the “bull” gopher (a male gopher of breeding age) stakes out his territory and creates a maze of tunnels that he hopes will attract females seeking the “good life”. Sex always makes a story more interesting. If all goes well for the bull, the area is soon populated with young. Perhaps this maze is what Maddie found in her digging.

Black Box Gopher Trap is set in place.

Gophers feed on a variety of plants using their sense of smell to locate food. Most folks, who’ve gardened for any length of time, will have a horror story to tell of watching a plant slowly being pulled underground if front of their eyes. A few years ago I observed a six-foot hollyhock list slowly to the side until it lay prone; its roots devoured by a subterranean pest. I found a prized seven-foot butterfly bush lying wilted and prostrate on the earth. The trunk appeared to have been eaten by a beaver. My guess is the culprit was a gopher who had left his run and “taken down” the shrub at ground level. I cut some of its branches and made some nice plants with the cuttings that still live in my garden today.

Old Macabee Traps need to be put in tunnels

My husband uses a metal trap, called a Macabee, to keep down the gopher population. The trap requires brute strength to set.  Then there is the problem of removing the dead gopher after it has been squeezed between the “pinchers”. I have neither the hand strength nor the stomach for this type of entrapment. We’ve also used the “Black Box” trap which is easier on the hands. In areas where the dog and chickens are excluded, I use the sissy method of gopher annihilation. I insert pellets of poison using a probe that puts it directly into the burrows. One must be extremely careful that none of the poison is spilled on the ground where birds can ingest it or pets come into contact with it. As I was taking pictures of the excavation and traps this morning, that little gopher had the nerve to stick her head out of the hole and look at me. The audacity!

The audacity! A gopher looks up at us as we prepare traps!

There is no easy solution to the gopher problem. Some people in the area plant new plants in wire baskets. I’ve done this with expensive new plants that I think are vulnerable and it seems to work until the plant is mature and doesn’t need root protection.

Our property adjoins open space on one side and a vacant lot on the other. I’m realistic enough to know that we will have to deal with these underground critters one on one, and, at best, keep them under control. As for Maddie, the Australian Labradoodle, a little more training is in order.

Cymbidiums orchids do well in our coastal climate, and just about anywhere else in San Luis Obispo County, if given filtered sunlight, water, and lots of food. Shade cloth or an open tree can provide filtered shade. Cymbidiums can tolerate morning sun in cooler climates [...]]]>

Cymbidium orchid from the garden of Carol Frane, Cambria

Cymbidiums orchids do well in our coastal climate, and just about anywhere else in San Luis Obispo County, if given filtered sunlight, water, and lots of food. Shade cloth or an open tree can provide filtered shade. Cymbidiums can tolerate morning sun in cooler climates and I’ve seen cymbidiums growing in full sun in coastal Cambria.

What you do with your cymbidiums orchids in the spring will affect how your cymbidiums produce next winter. After your blooms have faded, begin a fertilizing routine to stimulate growth. Fertilizing is important to orchids because they are “hungry” plants. A complete fertilizer high in nitrogen, 30-10-10, and applied once a month, should do the trick. I also use worm compost tea for watering in the spring and summer as it is high in nitrogen and is not as high in salts as commercial fertilizer. During the summer, the fertilizer should be changed to a balanced 18:18:18 feed and then, in the fall, to a bloom booster like 10:30:20. If you don’t have time for this kind of routine, a handful of slow release fertilizer like Osmocote, once a month, will work.

Divide your cymbidiums if they have become too crowded in the pots or when the planting mix has broken down. If you wait until summer to divide, it may affect their blooms next year. Healthy cymbidiums need to be repotted about every few years after blooms have fallen off. Divide plants by breaking apart at the natural divisions. Clean the old potting mix from the roots and cut off any dead or damaged roots. Place a mound of moist potting mix in the center of the pot and spread the roots over the mound of mix. Fill in around the bulb until the lower 1/3 of it is covered. Lightly tap in soil so it is tight and not too loose.

Cymbidiums like a slightly acid potting mix that provides good drainage. You can buy this mix or use fine orchid bark with perlite, shavings, and coarse peat moss added for water retention. Larger bark will require more frequent watering.

Speaking of watering, you should water your cymbidiums often enough to keep them moist. They should never be allowed to dry out. This could be twice a week in the growing season and less, of course, in the winter.

Another Cymbidium from Carol's garden.

Pests can be a problem to cymbidium plants and flowers. Red spider mites and scale are the two most persistent cymbidium plant pests with snails and slugs being the primary threat to the delicate blooms. Spider mites are a problem inland where the humidity is lower. Try misting your orchids in the warm, dry season to keep them moist and use a miticide if all else fails. Aphids like the buds and flowers and should be washed off with water when first noticed. Hand-picking at night or a safe, granular form of bait should control snails and slugs.

Cymbidiums are also subject to bacterial, fungal and viral diseases that are often associated with being too wet. Like roses, they can be victims of these diseases. Watering early enough in the day so that the plants can dry out before dark is the best prevention. Cymbidiums are also susceptible to the common orchid viruses. Transmission with contaminated tools or hands during dividing and repotting can be a problem.

I’m not always successful at growing these beautiful Asian terrestrial orchids; I’ve certainly had my failures. But I know people who have beautiful healthy orchids growing in pots under the pines. It requires consistency in watering and fertilizing and cleanliness in handling and repotting. Now, all I have to do is put my knowledge into practice!

It’s decision time for most of us on the Central Coast. We need to plan what and how many vegetable seeds to plant. I’ve simplified my planting over the years. I’m not into preserving like I used to be. Our offspring are grown and [...]]]>

A Small Vegetable Bed for a Small Family

It’s decision time for most of us on the Central Coast. We need to plan what and how many vegetable seeds to plant. I’ve simplified my planting over the years. I’m not into preserving like I used to be. Our offspring are grown and gone. I still freeze vegetables, but canning is not how I want to spend my retirement. Then again, I still make applesauce in the fall. Oh yes, and then there’s the berry jam and orange marmalade. Anyway, let’s say, I don’t “put up” like I used to.

It’s important for me to plant just enough vegetables for us to use so that our produce is fresh and I don’t have to beg visitors to “please take some home with you.”

Here’s how it breaks down for a small family of 2-4 members.

• Broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower usually ripen over a 2-3 week period. So 3 plants of each kind should be enough for a good harvest.

• Beets need to be planted about 4 inches apart. I plant them in the fall in a 3’ x 3’ space.

• Carrots can be planted nearly year around along the cooler coast. I plant twice a year in a two 4 foot square areas. I can pull them up as I need them.

• Cucumbers grow better in warmer parts of the county than in our coastal town. Two to three plants will do unless you are planning on canning cucumber pickles.

• Corn also grows well inland. Remember that corn is pollinated by the wind so it’s best planted in short rows so it can pollinate itself. About 20 plants will give you plenty of sweet fresh ears in late summer.

• Beans, green and yellow, need a fence or trellis. Plant 3 seeds at the base of a tepee. Pole beans can produce over a long period of time if you pick daily. Bush beans produce one crop.

• Snow peas can also be planted at the bottom of a three-legged tepee or in an 8 foot row. Three plants on each leg will be enough as snow peas are best eaten fresh.

• In a small garden, you need to plant lettuce and spinach every month for several months to keep a good supply over spring and summer, and yes, winter. Plant 2-3 foot rows of each kind.

• Chard is a real winner in my garden. I plant about 12 plants and keep harvesting off of the sides for 6 months out of the year.

• Peppers of several varieties can be grown in warm regions. Four to six plants is plenty unless you are into drying some for chili.

• Potatoes can be grown in mounds of about 20 plants. You’ll be able to enjoy them over a few months time.

• Tomatoes are a big challenge for those of us close to the ocean. Four to six plants will give you enough to have fresh summer tomatoes and some extra to make sauces and freeze.

• Summer squash and zucchini will give you vegetables if all else fails! Two plants of three varieties (six in all) will give you enough for a small family and enough to give away.

It’s easy to plant more vegetables than you need, so be careful. You’ll find out through trial and error what works best for your family. I’m going out right now and get to work!

I’m looking around my garden to see what needs to be done, what worked this past year, and what didn’t. The rhubarb looks really healthy and I’ve harvested it for months. What works for me, may just work for you.

January is a perfect time of year for planting [...]]]>

Stems of rhubarb are edible

I’m looking around my garden to see what needs to be done, what worked this past year, and what didn’t. The rhubarb looks really healthy and I’ve harvested it for months. What works for me, may just work for you.

January is a perfect time of year for planting rhubarb from dormant roots or plant divisions. You can buy them or ask a fellow gardener to break off a healthy crown bud for you. I started from one plant from a friend’s garden and it has thrived here.

Rhubarb is a native of Siberia. Because our winters are not cold enough to produce bright red stems, you have to be content with the reddish tint of our coastal climate rhubarb. One plant will take up 3-4 feet of garden space in a sunny or partially shaded area. One plant is probably enough for a household, although two may provide enough to give away. Prepare the soil well before planting, digging in lots of compost, and fertilize each fall with manure. Space your new plants about 3 feet apart and place the crown just below the top of the soil. Cover with mulch and watch the magic begin!

The best rhubarb is harvested just after the leaves open and before they are completely flat. To harvest, pull or twist stems gently from lower part of the plant. Cutting stems with scissors or a knife leaves a stub that may cause rot. Leave some of the stalks on the rhubarb plant, even if your neighbor tries to get you to harvest them. The plant needs to feed itself with the remaining leaves.

Rhubarb Grows Among the Flowers

Leaves  of rhubarb are toxic and most critters won’t touch them. Even our pesky labradoodles, who love to eat greens in the garden, don’t chew on them. The leaves contain oxalic acid. Oxalic acid is also in spinach, beets, cabbage, and other vegetables but to a lessor degree. So take my word for it. Don’t eat rhubarb leaves.

Rhubarb has few problems with pests and diseases. Bugs do not care for rhubarb leaves but occasionally a snail or slug will take out of bite out of a stem. This is seldom a problem for the plant. Just go out after dark with a flashlight and find the culprit. I did lose a rhubarb crown last year in the wet winter. The Phytophthora fungus was most likely the cause due to poor drainage in that area of my garden.

In culinary use, fresh stalks can be eaten raw and in fresh fruit salads. Be forewarned, they are oh so tart! Most commonly, they are used in desserts and sauces with lots of sugar. Next time I make an apple/rhubarb crisp I’ll post the recipe. Rhubarb adds some tartness to my sweet apples and the blend of sweet and sour is delicious.

I wrote some garden resolutions a few years ago for our local newspaper and the ones regarding sustainability are still relevent. We hear the word “sustainable” referring to buying food grown close to home, using less energy, and generally, demanding less of the environment in our daily life. Sustainability [...]]]>

Australian Plants are Drought Tolerant

I wrote some garden resolutions a few years ago for our local newspaper and the ones regarding sustainability are still relevent. We hear the word “sustainable” referring to buying food grown close to home, using less energy, and generally, demanding less of the environment in our daily life. Sustainability is not a new concept. In the 60’s many of my generation gave up luxuries for a more natural existence. My family had a milk goat and I baked all our bread. Decades before us, people had victory gardens and did what they could to survive a depression and world wars. While maturity has increased my appreciation for “creature comforts”, I still look for ways to “live more lightly” on the planet.

In 2012, I am going to make my garden more sustainable and less labor intensive. I know, I say that every year,  but this time I mean it! I want to make it more drought-tolerant and more naturally beautiful. I want to grow food but not so much as to be wasteful and to make my life more difficult.

Our hens have played a large role in helping us be sustainable. They supply us with fresh eggs and their fertilizer keeps our compost bins cookin’. No kitchen scrap goes to waste. What the chickens don’t eat, the worms in my worm bins process, providing me with “black gold” (food for plants).

I make garden resolutions each year, which really means that I think about how to improve my immediate environment. These are my garden resolutions for the coming year. As you can see, they have a “sustainable” twist.

• I will continue to replace “cottage garden” plants with “drought tolerant” plants.
• I will use my vegetable beds year-round by practicing successive plantings of lettuce, arugula, and winter greens. I will continue to experiment with cool season vegetables.
• I will use potted plants for seasonal color rather than planting entire beds of labor-intensive plants. This one is hard for me as I love color.
• I will compost all garden clippings except those with diseases (which sadly, amounts to a large percentage).
• I will remember to turn my compost pile to speed up decomposition.
• With every planting, I will improve the soil with composted materials (and the earthworms will love me for it).